Joaquim and Amor Conde are a County success story. Disillusioned with the Toronto rat race, the couple took a risk and followed a dream.

In 2013 they found an abandoned farm in Black River, and set about developing a sustainable organic farm that would support every aspect of farm existence, from vegetable harvest to livestock to fertilizer — and around again. In organic farming, the Condes found a model, likewise, for a sustainable local culture, an ethical and social form of community they cultivated in all who visited and experienced their organic farm, whether through tours, children’s camps, or community dinners enjoyed al fresco.

They called it Quinta do Conde, a term that invokes the kind of diverse farming estate with which Joaquim grew up in Portugal.

It took three years to get things up and running, and there were a few missteps along the way. In particular, watching the trends in PEC, the Condes made two attempts to establish vineyards and a “gravity winery,” which simply did not work out. It is “borderline masochism” to grow grapes in this climate, laughed Joaquim, who has nothing but admiration for those who have succeeded here by managing to preserve the vines over Canada’s harsh winters. In Portugal, grapes “grow like weeds;” the work of a vintner is significantly lighter there.

Now, after a decade of hard work in PEC, the Condes can no longer ignore the call of Portugal. They want to take their brand of agriculture and agritourism back home, where they will restore Joaquim’s family estate in the Minho region of Northwest Portugal, and make it an active and functional farm — which includes a surviving vineyard — as it was half a century ago.

The idea of “home” has been a guiding principle for the Condes, who insist on the importance of local community. Their philosophy is simple: “to create resilience in the community.” This is not only the creation of a self-sustaining ecosystem within the farm, but also of cultivating relationships with other farmers and businesses, offering employment, and educating through their tours, celebrated summer camps and  farm-to-table dinners, where everything served is grown within sight of the table. All of these are ongoing this season as they celebrate their tenth anniversary while also looking to the future.

Teaching through business was one of Joaquim’s themes when he ran an auto shop in Toronto. He is proud that some of his co-op students have now established themselves in his place. Similarly, employment at the farm has been “transformative” for some. One of this year’s camp counsellors has herself just bought a farm and is launching into business. “Something she never expected,” noted Amor.

The model of community here is diverse. Whereas traditionally farms have passed from generation to generation within a family, the Condes’ model of education and exposure allows the tradition to branch out to newcomers. To have a young camper start their week calling it “boring” and end it saying “I want to be a farmer,” is a success, a broadened horizon. It is “something planted in the children,” said Joaquim.

“We have accomplished what we set out to do,” they said, “and we want to pass the torch.” The Condes are looking for a buyer of their farm and its business who will be interested to continue its community engagement, thinking globally and acting locally. They know that the neighbours, friends and customers are all keen to see the business thrive and Amor and Joaquim are equally keen to assist in ensuring its continuation.

Details about Quinta do Conde’s final season, celebrating ten years in the County, can be found at quintadoconde.ca.