It’s been a roller coaster month at Merrill House. First, the award-winning boutique inn on Picton Main was selected as a Michelin Guide Hotel, only the second in Canada to win the honour.

“It was just like in the movies,” says owner Jordan Martin de Rosales. “A secret Michelin inspector visited over the summer. We had no idea. We still have no idea who it was.”

Merrill House now joins The Royal Hotel in the coveted honour. The Royal was just awarded a second Michelin Key,  a designation for larger establishments. Together, The Royal and Merrill House have put Picton on the global map of luxury inns.

Mr. Martin de Rosales led a total renovation of the 1878 red brick Gothic Revival mansion he took over seven years ago, when he was just 26. He came with experience in marketing, brand management and luxury hospitality in London, Dubai, and Africa, as well as expertise in architecture and interior design.

“Not one window, not one bathroom was left untouched,” he notes. He designed every one of the 14 unique guest rooms. Art, books, rich colour and lavish and inventive design mark every corner both inside and out on the inn’s beautiful, terraced property.

Merrill House is renowned not just for its gorgeous setting, though. Thanks to Chef Michael Sullivan, it also offers fine French dining. 

That brings me to the second thing.

Chef Michael, who has worked at Merrill for 21 years and is now in his early sixties, is easing into a partial retirement. Merrill House’s restaurant, Brasserie Alexandria, will no longer offer regular dining.

It’s sad news. The intimate restaurant, not to mention its renowned wine cellar, have been beloved across the County for two decades.

But Mr. Martin de Rosales is quick to reassure. “It’s really a business pivot. We will still have Michael. It’s only a partial retirement.” The shift will allow for more focus on the hotel side of things. Chef Michael, a draw in himself, will cater private dinners, retreats, and, especially, weddings.

“We look forward to opening the restaurant for pop-up dinner evenings,” says Mr. Martin de Rosales. “Those will be exceptional events.”

Wedding Country

As I sit in the back garden on a Friday afternoon with Mr. Martin de Rosales, guests are pouring in. This weekend, they are staying at Merrill House in order to attend a wedding at The Cape. “Increasingly, the wedding is here as well as the guests,” notes the host. 

As the County has become a coveted destination wedding location, Merrill House has been at the center of the activity. It can accommodate  outdoor, tented weddings of up to 150 people, and 40 overnight guests. Wedding parties routinely book the whole mansion for a two- or three-day weekend. 

“Weddings demand so much collaboration, between hotels, caterers, and our food and beverage suppliers, it really is a County carriage trade,” notes Mr. Martin de Rosales. “It’s been taking up more and more of our time, not just our own weddings, but those at neighbouring venues.”

“This pivot makes perfect sense for us. It gives us a bit of down time in the off season to study and travel, and the timing is right for Chef Michael. It allows him to ease into retirement gradually.”

Countylicious Swan Song

Before Brasserie Alexandria closes on November 15th, the Chef will offer a special Swan Song menu over the three weeks of Countylicious, highlighting favourite dishes from over the years. “We have had so much fun together,” says Mr. de Rosales. “We’ve done so much together over the past 7 years. So many cool things. The pivot during the pandemic. Various experiments. And it’s really been a family affair. Lili (Chef Michael’s wife) is our breakfast chef. Jake (the couple’s son) is a server.” 

Chef Michael is preparing a host of favourite dishes: Evert de Rosales, Jordan’s partner and an accomplished artist, loves baked Atlantic salmon with a shrimp and scallop mousse. Rabbit Dijonaise with pearl onions, mushrooms and bacon is Lili’s favourite (and how could it not be yours?). But the crème de la crème is Chef Michael’s favourite: Opera Cake, an almond sponge cake layered with hazelnut coffee buttercream and chocolate ganache. 

In honour of his years at the inn, every bottle from the wine cellar will be 21 percent off.

Like everything else at Merrill House, its Swan Song promises to be spectacular. Enjoy it all while you still can.